Skip to content

Maroon Kurta

December 15, 2017


Maroon McCall7888 Full

Its been two years since i have started making kurtas (tunics!!!) for myself and a lot of learning happened since then.
A Prima pattern(May 2009) was used as the base pattern(I got some Prima patterns which originally come along with the magazine, off ebay couple of years back). Techniques such as removing darts, rotating darts, slashing and spreading the pattern were all used to make it a TNT (Tried and True). Lot of my learning is from fellow bloggers and threads magazine articles and i am really thankful for all the information they have shared freely. This TNT is what i reach for when i need to make a quick one as it is dartless.

Here is the magazine tear-off of the prima pattern that i started off with 2 years ago.
Prima May 2009 tearoff

I extended the pattern straight down and put some slits on the sides to make it a kurta. That was my starting point. Adjusting it to my petite-self and arriving at a TNT pattern, took a lot of time, fabric and patience. Luckily all the versions were wearable atleast in the house and to run errands.

Today its a vintage McCall’s dress pattern that is converted into a kurta. Its the shoulder princess seams that called me to try this pattern.
McCall Vintage 7888

Maroon McCall7888

Fabric: Brick red and black shot cotton from DAMA (this seems to be thicker than mangalagiri cotton).
Pattern: McCalls 7888 (Size 14)

Pattern Adjustments:
1. Removed 1″ length from all body pieces at the increase/decrease line.
2. Added 1″ flare to all the front pieces (should have added a proportional amount to the back too….a note for next time).
3. The arm hole curve (of both front and back pieces) is from my existing TNT kurta pattern, so that existing TNT sleeve pattern can be used.

Maroon McCall7888-Front

For most of the commercial patterns that i have, I found that the sleeve caps are too high and i have to do a large arm adjustment, so i find it easy to use my TNT sleeve pattern and so i adjust the armhole on the body too.
I am also not a fan of sleeve-cap ease. Too much fiddling and too many pins. After reading about zero sleeve-cap ease, i changed my TNT kurta pattern and sleeve to reflect that and its now so easy to sew the sleeves.

1. Placket tutorial from Professor Pincushion Youtube channel.
2. Collar drafting from Creative Curator
Maroon McCall7888-PlacketCollar

Maroon McCall7888-Seams

3. The sleeves are a Pinterest inspiration.
Maroon McCall7888-Sleeve

Maroon McCall7888-Back

4. Even though i made a straight 14 size, I had to do some adjustments in the bust area and next time i will blend the front pattern pieces from 12 to 14 near the waist.

Final Verdict:
The kurta fits beautifully (hides all the lumps and bumps) and i love the back. The shaping with the darts is almost perfect (sorry no pictures). I might move them 1″ up on my next version. This could be my new TNT pattern only for the back… its just transferring the dart markings and sewing the darts, that is a pain.

Notes for making your kurta:
What has worked for me might not work for you.
1. I have tried drafting kurta patterns as per some instructions on blogs and youtube videos, where the only difference between the front and back is the armhole curve… It didnt give me a good fit. What i found is the back bodice should be a little longer near the shoulders than your front so that it wraps that shoulder curve properly (hope it made sense).
2. Commercial sleeves patterns didn’t work for the fact they kind of restricted my arm movement especially when doing chores where i had to stretch my arms.
3. If you are on a fence about sewing your own kurtas… take a spin on free blouse pattern. Sorbetto by Colette is a good starting point especially as they have added the sleeves. Remove the front pleat, extend the pattern and add some side slits for your kurta muslin.

No comments yet

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: