FLASHBACK 2016: SUMMER SEWING for Ms H
This is “KCW Spring 2016” make for Ms H. The geometric print fabric is a lovely purchase from Mrignayanee, Chennai.. nice place to pick Bagh prints and Batik prints in cotton. MS H is sold on it being pink 🙂
Pattern: Mini Tania Culottes by Megan Nielsen
Fabric: Block Printed Cotton from Mrignayanee.
The pattern and instructions are followed with no modifications except for the addition of a pocket, for which there is a tutorial and a pattern piece (i modified the pocket pattern a bit) on Megan’s blog.
Showing off my hem… there was quite a lot of hemming to be done and nothing can beat a good pressing and tonnes of pins…
With the way Ms H was sitting(especially when she is sitting cross legged on the floor) , there was a lot of strain on the front pleat stitches. The fabric being thin, teared away and had to be repaired twice.
I wasn’t really happy with how it looked from behind…. So next time i will see how it looks by removing the back pleat totally.
But Ms H looked cute in it and she really loved wearing it. May be some printed rayon next time???
It has been long time since i have seriously looked at my blog.
The past year has been quite busy… finding time and inclination to blog hasn’t been the priority.
Ms H started a new school and so a new routine.
Ms J has to be under constant surveillance after she stopped her morning naps around 8 months back.
We also had lot of house guests last year and while it made me busy… the kids also got lot of clothes as gifts. So i wrote a fresh sewing plan and concentrated on sewing for myself and made myself a fresh wardrobe.
1. I made around dozen kurtas in the past 10 months.
2. I researched and read a lot of blogs, articles on fitting issues, pattern modifications, dart manipulations, finishing, dress making and more.
3. I squirrelled a lot of fabric for my pinterest inspired projects.
4. I neglected my own blog and also stopped following some of my fav blogs around kids sewing.
i will start documenting my previous years projects in the coming posts.
KHADI PICNIC WITH FAUX SMOCKING
Its Asmita who inspired me to pick some khadi fabric when she made some lovely moon pants for her daughter. So on a trip into the city 2 months back, i picked some khadi fabric, the thinner variety, which is almost like voile. I made two blouses for H, inspite of my reservations… she loves both, you can see the Khadi Ayashe here. I am looking forward to see them after a couple of washes when they have really softened.
After the wearable muslin for Ms H, I realised that she can still wear a size 4 with added length for both body and sleeves. while i am there i also added quite a bit of width to the blouse. I think this changed the whole look, while the original is more tailored, this version is more relaxed.
If you look closely the stripes do go in different directions for both body and sleeves, which i didn’t realise until after i finished the blouse. They don’t seem to bother anyone except me.
Pattern: Picnic Blouse by Oliver+S
Size: 4T with modifications
Fabric: Khadi voile from Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan
Added length and width to the body (don’t remember the numbers now).
Hemmed the sleeves by turning in 1/2″ twice as i forgot to add length.
All hemming is by hand as the fabric seems to hang better this way.
And about that tiny bit of faux smocking in the front and back….. After the entire blouse is finished and as i was taking out my gathering stitches, i thought the blouse would have looked nice with some smocking and may be i should do that next time. But that little thought was there and the more i looked at the blouse, the more it bothered me… so i added couple of rows of smocking stitches and put that thought to rest 🙂 The fact that it is a checked fabric made the embroidery easy.
Also I finally dipped my sewing feet in Khadi and i am glad i did. The stripped khadi (Ms H’s blouse) is like a light weight voile and presses beautifully. My machine loved it so much that it tried to eat it couple of times. Ripping the seams is not easy on this fabric and it does ravel a bit and stretches out of shape easily especially on sleeves and necklines.
Pattern: Ayashe blouse by Figgys
Size: 4/5 and 18M
Fabric: Khadi stripes from Khadi Gramodhyog Bhavan
Mud resist indigo dyed cambric from Mrignayanee.
For the Khadi blouse, the hem and sleeves are hand hemmed. The sleeve length is reduced so that its more like ¾ sleeve and there is no elastic in the sleeve. As i was setting-in the sleeves, i stay stitched the sleeve head which prevented stretching.
For the Indigo blouse, I pre hand-hemmed the sleeves and set them in flat even though the instructions say other wise. The short sleeves are super cute but a bit difficult to set them in round and hem them later.
Another thing is the neck opening, while Ms H could put it on without much difficulty she complained that the neck opening was a bit low… while an old camisole solved the problem temporarily, i should add a hook/eye. For Ms J, I trimmed the neck line near the shoulders so that her head goes through.
Overall lovely blouses for summer.
While i am enjoying Ms J’s toddler years, it is also interesting to see how Ms H’s character is changing and adapting around her younger sister.
Ms H always asks me what i am making and for whom i am making (with regard to sewing projects). She always insists to match her younger sister and wants me to make a similar thing for her too.
After seeing Ms J’s Bagh Picnic, she asked for a pink Picnic blouse for herself. I didn’t have any more of that fabric and also i have the pattern in smaller size.
While she does fit into size 4 measurements as she is slim built, i thought its a good idea to do a muslin first. As this is supposed to be a wearable muslin, i thought why not put some fun detail. The pattern has straight sides and a straight hem…. giving out a lot of ideas/possibilities for customisation/pattern hacks.
Pattern: Oliver+S Picnic Blouse
Fabric: Batik Print cotton from Mrignayanee used for Ms J’s dress here and a small scrap of brown corduroy.
Ms H fits well into size 4 but needs length in both body and sleeves. Its been almost 2 months since i made it and though she didn’t reach for it by herself, she never said ‘NO’ when i suggested her to wear. The fabric is light and floaty and perfect for the growing temperatures.
I added 3/4″ for the back hem and reduced 3/4″ from the front hem. I didn’t add any extra seam allowance for the slits.
One more picnic is already in works, this time with added length.
Summer is already in full swing in Chennai and I am still writing about my Spring Sewing. Its been 3 months since i last posted on my blog… Sewing more than i write (though been taking pictures of the finished projects and some modelling pics).
H is not much into dresses, separates rule her wardrobe. So i wanted something that work together but also can be worn with something else. she is extremely pleased with both the blouse and the skirt, She has worn both together and separately more than a few times and that in my book is success.
Top: Pattern 1 from “sewing for your girls” with modified sleeves from Pattern 2
Skirt: Paris Skirt tutorial modified to a button front skirt.
Top: Floral Stretch Poplin from cotton street.
Skirt: Natural Dyed 30’s handloom cotton in black (in real its deep olivish brown though i was expecting deep grey when i ordered it online from
dacottonhandlooms ). Lovely store and i totally recommend them but be ready to expect the unexpected as it is with handlooms, natural dyes and computer screen colour differences 🙂
Skirt: Drafted to Ms H measurements.
This blouse is the inspiration, but its really this one by Deepa that finally pushed me to take the plunge.
The bodice is cut 7″ above the 100cm size line. The peplum is a long rectangle drafted to the top measurements. I did a muslin first and it was a really good idea.
The top waited a long time for the buttons… there are only 2 shops nearby that deal in tailoring stuff and both didn’t have anything that i like. I ended up ordering the present ones from Pradhan Embroidery stores.
The Chinese takeaway pockets idea is from hopscotch skirt by Oliver+S. Finished with some coconut buttons. The buttons are printed on the right side, i used the wrong side.
I love how the whole skirt turned out and it does look good on her.
Ms J didn’t have a mum-made dress this time. Couple of muck-ups by a local large format printer kept me in bad mood. I didn’t want to rush her ice-cream dress intended for Pongal, so she wore a dress my SIL gifted her even before she was born.
This dress is what i call slow-sewing… I took my time (almost 3 weeks) to finish it and only because i worked on it when i absolutely wanted to and couldn’t be more pleased with the result.
Pattern: IceCream Dress by Oliver+S, View A without pockets.
Fabric: Stretch Poplin and veg-dyed handloom cotton(same as Ms H’s skirt here)
No Changes to the pattern pieces at all but the back closure is modified to include two discreet snap buttons. A little cut into the back body (which is finished with a bias tape) for more head room while getting on and off.
Of-course a little bit of flat piping at the very last minute and french side seams. I decided to include the piping just before i top stitched the main yoke to the body, so i basted it before i top stitched the yoke in place.
I ordered a metre of the handloom cotton (used for the hem and for H’s skirt here) and still left with a decent piece, just enough for size 4 yoke. Since Ms H already put a request for a top in the floral fabric… May be an Icecream top for her?